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NEGRIL |
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Jamaica's shrine to permissive indulgence, NEGRIL has metamorphosed
from deserted fishing beach to full-blown resort town in little over two
decades. American hippies first started visiting what was then a virgin
paradise in the 1970s, setting the tone for today's free-spirited
attitude, but these days, the presence of deliberately risqué resorts
like the infamous Hedonism II has ensured that Negril is widely
perceived as a place where inhibitions are lost and pleasures of the
flesh rule. The traditional menu of ganja and reggae draws a young crowd,
but the north-coast resort ethic has muscled in too. All-inclusives of
every ilk pepper the coast and hotels line every inch of the beach,
while hustling has increased to an irritating degree.
But Negril shrugs off such minor issues and remains supremely chilled-out.
Pristine miles of sand, comprehensive watersports facilities, open-air
dancing to first-rate live music, a wide range of eating and drinking
joints, gregarious company, and the best sunsets on the island are all
on offer here. Many foreigners have stayed on permanently, blurring the
distinctions between tourists and locals and making for a relaxed,
natural interaction that's a refreshing change from other resorts
The Town
Negril doesn't really have a centre - just a roundabout feeding its
three main roads - and most people leave the beach or cliffs only to
change money, buy petrol or find a ride out of the area. However,
Sheffield Road is the least tourist-oriented part of town and the
closest approximation of a real heart, with the police station, market
stalls, petrol station, restaurants and constant crowds dodging beeping
mopeds. To the right of the roundabout are two shopping plazas - Coral
Seas Plaza and Plaza de Negril; the car park in front is known as Negril
Square , a base for taxi drivers, black-market currency touts and would-be
guides. Nestled behind is Red Ground , a residential area that houses
most of Negril's permanent population.
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